U3A Writing: Fashion Or Passion?
So what was a liberty bodice? Jennie Boothroyd recalls some of the garments which women wore in bygone days.
I was watching the BAFTA awards on TV the other evening and seeing all the stars arriving in their finery, when it struck me, “What kind of clothes are they nearly wearing?” The women, that is. No back, very little skirt and two narrow strips which just cover the boobs, and woe betide her if she gets jostled in the crush!
When I think of how we have progressed from the all-over cover of long skirt, several petticoats, long sleeves, and high heels to today’s skimpy outfits, I am aware of the layers which have been stripped away. No doubt central heating may have had something to do with it and the need to shed a vest or petticoat. One can’t wear those with a bare midriff.
I went to my great-granddaughter’s 18th party a few weeks ago. When she came downstairs in her admittedly pretty black glittering top, a sort of boob tube, and a skirt the likes of which would just about have made me a belt, I had to smile as her dad said, “You’re not going in that.”
“Oh, Dad!” was the reply, and she did and had a whale of a time!
All that brought my mind back to my young days. Who can recall ‘combies’? ‘Combinations’ to the uneducated. A short sleeved woolly all-in-one, which was like a pair of shorts attached to a top which buttoned down the front. How did we go to the toilet in it? I think it had a let-down flap at the back. Otherwise you’d have to get half undressed!
Some time later when that had gone the way of many fashions we progressed to the liberty bodice, a fleecy garment which either pulled on over one’s head or fastened down the front with rubber buttons. As they became well washed (they were changed every Saturday!), they began to run up and out a bit, and they always needed tugging down.
This bodice usually went over one’s vest. Now this had short sleeves and a round neck. At the southern end of one’s torso we wore fleecy knickers (often navy blue), ‘ETBs’ as they were known. ‘Elastic Top and Bottoms’ to you. On the right leg was a small pocket, ideal for storing one’s hanky, dinner money or a few sweeties.
That was a good thing about your knickers. You could hide all sorts up the elastic leg, tuck in your frock when paddling in the sea, play handstands against the wall and still remain pure and covered up. Today’s thongs wouldn’t have a price!
As one approached puberty --that was in the teens, not about 10 or 11 as is the norm today -- one awaited with trepidation or excitement, according to your nature, for the beginnings of one’s bust to appear. Very soon blouses were popping their press studs, and one wondered how to conceal the new you! How very embarrassing!
I remember going to my grandparents’ Golden Wedding at 15 wearing my very first bra. None of your B, C or D cup sizes. It was a band of pink firm cotton with a broad elastic back and narrow straps over the shoulders which squeezed one into a sausage shape and restricted breathing.
This was accompanied by an elastic girdle (also pink) around the hips. A ‘roll-on’ it was called. My -- did it roll, and always upwards! Attached to the bottom were four suspenders with little rubber buttons attached, to which one fastened the tops of stockings by a little metal ring. In times of energetic games the buttons were liable to come off with a ping, but one could always replace it with a threepenny bit, and you were never without small change then!
The grown-ups were then introduced to that new phenomenon the Spirella corset. This firm began manufacturing corsetry to measure in the up-and-coming new town Welwyn Garden City in Hertfordshire.
My aunt was a corsetiere. She trained and would come to your house, strip you to your vest and measure you up hill and down and around -- and bingo -- a made-to-measure corset which fitted very snugly. It had a few narrow strips of white plastic-like bone inserted, which gave extra support but were wont to poke out on occasions, which gave you an odd silhouette.
I remember going to a dance, and Denis, my boyfriend and later my hubby, took my friend Joan into a very energetic Gay Gordons. “Denis,” said Joan, “I’ve got my new Spirellas on. Do go steady.” He always reminded her of the time he broke her ‘stays’ in. Happy Days!
My great aunt sewed a little pocket inside the top of her corset where she kept her money. It was a bit awkward in Rushworth’s Department Store when she needed to get her money out for her new frock!
Even in those days one could see the changing shape of underwear. I remember lovely tailored satin petticoats by Kayser Bonder. They were beautifully made, and I felt a million dollars in one. Everything stayed firmly in place, unlike today’s pictures of ‘things’ popping out of strappy gowns. Where will it all end?
So what will the future bring -- no clothes at all, or a return to Victorian prudery? Who knows? We’ll just have to wait and see.
Huddersfield University of the Third Age
