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: Feria At Ferriera

Terri Anderson creates a vivid word picture of market day in a small Spanish town and describes the delights of Raff's bar.

On the 1st and 15th of every month there is a Feria at Ferriera. To the un-initiated, these are more or less outside markets.

I can't say I'm over impressed with markets. This probably stems from being dragged around outside markets on Fridays, and having to stop at what seemed like every vegetable stall so that Mum could check the various goods on offer and decide which stall had the best fruit, veg etc.

OK, so times were hard and the best value for money was essential, but crickey, did Mum have to spend all the time chatting? And the same old comments! Oh haven't you grown! How are you doing in school? And the reward for being good? The possibility of going to the sweet stall!

Oh the memories! Sweet tobacco, coconut ice, rhubarb and custard, pear drops, chocolate hundred and thousands, coconut mushrooms, chocolate candy. It didn't matter that the shapes weren't perfect, for a tanner (6 old pence - for younger readers) you could get loads!

Why oh why, did I have to spend what seemed like hours looking at the verdant greens, white cauliflowers, earthy brown potatoes, when my time could have been better spent gazing at the wondrous collection of sweets with their myriad colours: blues, reds, yellows!

You can keep your Haribu! Nowadays they might be better for your teeth, but there was nothing better than having your taste buds exploding and jaws aching with yesteryears confectionery!

Now, where was I? The bi-monthly Feria. Basically, it seems nowadays these are meeting places. While chatting to friends, folk remember when the Ferias buzzed with life. The locals brought their produce, and animals and of course.

At mid-day everyone stopped for lunch. Lunch at most of these, seems to consist of pulpo. What is pulpo? Octopus, supposedly, although I have my doubts. Obviously, I'm no connoisseur and I may be a tad biased but in my opinion it's very much like eating an eraser, but slightly less flavourful.

Here they love it. There are at least three different stalls selling the stuff. You can pick the vendor of your choice and then sit either in "Raff's" or al fresco. "Raff's" is a great bar and the owners, Raphael and Marta are special friends. The interior of Raff's is stone and accordingly cold in the winter and not much warmer in the summer, but the warm-heartedness of Raphael and Marta, more than make up for the lack of temperature.

On Feria days they are especially busy. Marta prepares mountains of potatoes to accompany the pulpo as well as the normal tapas, in a tiny kitchen, using only a griddle! In winter months it can get a little smoky, as the only form of heating is a log fire, with the ventilation chimney merely put through the overhead window. At times you can hardly see through the blue haze, although with wine and tapa a mere 60c, the blue haze may be a combination of smoke and alcohol.

In Spring, the feria's the place to buy plants, such as tomatoes, onions, peppers and the local growers vie with each other, promoting their wares. Being a softy, I tend to pick the grower with the friendliest face. Hey, I don't know one end of an onion from the other, so I have to have some way of choosing whom I buy from!

Tomorrow is feria day and I'm going with my gardening expert, Carmen. I really only need some more onions, but no doubt with Carmen's assistance, I shall end up with a load more.

There's one thing for sure. I shall steer well clear of the pulpo. Give me egg and chips any day!

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