Arabian Autographs: On The Saudi Catwalk
"Black abayas and scarves were cast aside and it felt as though we had been transported to a different world during our short elevator trip...'' Angela Townsend is in for a big surprise when she goes to a fashion show in Riyadh.
Angela says that one of the things she likes most about Saudi Arabia is that she never knows what is going to happen next. Read more of her excellent articles about life in the Kingdom by clicking on Arabian Autographs in the menu on the right-hand side of this page.
When the opportunity presented itself to attend a fashion show in Riyadh, I immediately opened my purse and handed over the 100 Saudi Riyals (about $35 Australian) for brunch and the show.
Organised by the American Women of Riyadh (AWR) and open to all interested women, it was to be held in the three-level, golden globe of the Faisaliah Tower, which I had admired from ground level but never visited. However, I must admit I have spent many happy browsing hours on the first two floors: the exclusive stores from Paris, New York and London have much to admire.
At 875 feet, the tower, completed in May 2000, held the title of first skyscraper for the entire Kingdom of Saudi Arabia for only eight months before being overtaken by the Mamlaka (Kingdom) Tower, at 992 feet high. Faisaliah Tower is an outstanding and attractive design; tall and slender, resembling an anorexic pyramid.
The brunch promised to be a grand finale for the close of the AWR year, before many women returned to their home countries to enjoy a less sweltering summer. Sunday morning saw a full bus depart our housing compound, including those who had attended last year’s event.
Ours was one of the last buses to arrive and, after routine underbelly surveillance at the main entrance, we swept up to the main arrival doors amidst extra National Guard security.
After walking through airport-style metal detectors and piling our handbags and cameras through the x-ray machine we all crammed into one lift. In 25 seconds we climbed through 584 feet, passing 30 floors of offices, including that of Faisaliah’s owner, Prince Bandar.
We then took another lift to the middle floor of the three-level geodesic dome. Women sat at tables around the outer edge, enjoying panoramic views over Riyadh and into the distance. Black abayas and scarves were cast aside and it felt as though we had been transported to a different world during our short elevator trip.
Because we had arrived a little late all the tables appeared to be occupied. However, spare seats were scattered around the room and our group sat wherever seats were to be found. This was much more interesting, as we got to meet women from other housing compounds whom we may not have otherwise met. One lady in her thirties told me she was from Ireland, had only been in Riyadh a week and was thoroughly enjoying herself. Others had been there as long as 18 years and could not imagine returning to “rainy old England”.
I settled down to enjoy the sumptuous brunch and wonderful service – the tower’s hotel had provided its waiters free of charge – and eagerly anticipated my first fashion show.
I almost choked on my croissant at the organiser’s special announcement: due to the possibility of a raid by Muttawa (religious police), the fashion show was to have a slight modification – the models would carry the clothes instead of wearing them.
Apparently, the notion of women changing behind screens 584 feet in the air would fail to impress the strict Muttawa if they decided to join us.
After the initial surprise of the announcement, most of us found this quite amusing. My first fashion show was going to be different to how I imagined but certainly something to write home about.
The models – women from various compounds – took the news in their stride, strutting their stuff, twirling and prancing around the globe. The designer wear was on loan from one of the stores below and was absolutely stunning – quite literally, when I saw the price tags. The average price for an outfit was about 6000 Saudi Riyals (about $2000 Australian).
While the show was going on, a small group of Saudi businessmen arrived via the lift and received an unexpected surprise. They quickly made their way upstairs to the cigar lounge, not knowing what to make of all the chattering ‘uncovered’ women. The upstairs room is generally reserved for men; a haven for a quiet chat while relaxing with exclusive, imported tobaccos. I doubt whether it was very quiet for them this day.
On returning to the compound, I decided it had indeed been a most interesting morning. That is one of the things I like most about Saudi Arabia – you just never know what is going to happen next.
