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Tales from Tawa: The Great Wall

Eve-Marie Wilson fulfils a long-held desire to walk on the Great Wall of China.

It had long been my desire to walk on the Great Wall of China, so when my husband suggested we could stop over in Beijing on our way home from Europe I jumped at the chance.

We organized a day trip which also included a visit to the Ming Tombs. As impressive as these were, they paled into insignificance next to the majesty of the Great Wall, the world's largest man-made structure. Mainly the work of the Ming Emperors who ruled between AD 1368 and AD 1644, the wall, which stretches 5000 kilometres from the east coast to the Gobi desert in the west, was built as a defence against marauding nomadic tribes.

My excitement knew no bounds as I joined the convoy of taxis, hire cars and tourist buses transporting visitors the 70 kilometres to Badaling, the point at which we were to ascend the wall.

Having a disability, I had expected some difficulty getting up onto the wall, but once there I was confident I’d be able to walk along it. I was not prepared, however, for the fact that this part of the wall, which negotiates a particularly steep terrain, is comprised almost entirely of steps interspersed by watchtowers. To make matters worse, the steps are all different heights. Some are as low as 20 centimeters and others so high many visitors have to climb up on their hands and knees.

I was not deterred. Once up on the wall, I held onto the handrail and slowly pulled myself to the first watchtower where for few Yuan I was photographed and issued with a certificate which verified my ascent. One was not a plucky hero, the certificate stated, until one had reached the Great Wall.

The watchtower provided a place to rest and take in the awe-inspiring view of the wall snaking its way up and over the steep hills, while reflecting on the hundreds of thousands of men who had worked on its construction. Many of whom succumbing to the rigors of the task ended up entombed in it.

Due to the steep angle of the steps, descending the wall was a slower process. Even the most able-bodied visitor needed to use the hand rail to stop themselves from falling.

A life long ambition realized in little more than an hour left me somewhat the worse for wear, but I felt every bit the plucky hero as I made the bus trip back to Beijing.

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