Open Writing

All aboard! All aboard the TranzAlpine express! I heed the call and sit back to experience what has been described as one of the most scenic rail journeys in the world.

Running from Christchurch on New Zealand’s Pacific Coast, through the Southern Alps to Greymouth on the shores of the Tasman Sea, the TranzAlpine is New Zealand’s only coast to coast railway.

The express starts its journey at 9.00 am daily, throughout the year. The first part of the journey takes me through the western suburbs of Christchurch, then across the fertile farmland of the Canterbury Plains. Leaving the plains, the express travels across huge viaducts spanning spectacular gorges. The highest of these is the 72 metre Staircase Viaduct across the Waimakariri River.

As it continues its steady climb up to Arthur’s Pass, the highest point of the journey, it travels through tunnels and past lakes, Beech forest and rugged hectares of brown and gold tussock bordering the foothills of the Alps.

There are few journeys in the world where, in just over four hours, tourists can enjoy such diversity of scenery. Each season of the year offers a different perspective. I have chosen to go in winter when the scenery is at its most spectacular. Vegetation in the high country is solidified by frost, icicles hang like crystal beads from the branches of trees, and the Alps and the surrounding countryside are coated in snow.

Two hours into the journey there is a brief stop at Arthur’s Pass, where I am able to get off the train to stretch my legs, take photographs and take in the delight of the tourists from more temperate climates as they frolic in the snow.

A voice on the tanoy warns of the antics of the Keas or mountain parrots, often found on the station. These comical birds, referred to as the clowns of the mountains, are known to run off with car keys or any other small interesting article that grabs their attention!

Arthur’s Pass is the gateway to a 9800 hectare national park and some passengers choose to spend the day exploring the alpine township and museum which is also the park headquarters.

On leaving Arthur’s Pass the train enters the Otira tunnel and descends 359 metres underground during its 12 kilometre run down to Otira, the first stop on the West Coast. The drilling of this tunnel in 1923 marked the completion of the Trans-alpine Railroad started in the 1880’s to provide a way to haul coal and timber from the West Coast to the port of Lytlleton.

Electrification of the Arthur’s Pass to Otira section of the line, a first for New Zealand railways, proved necessary as the 1:33 gradient was so steep the smoke generated by steam locomotives made traveling conditions in the tunnel extremely unpleasant. Today, passenger services on the line use diesel engines. Goods trains continue to use electric locomotives as their heavier loads and lack of air in the tunnel cause diesel engines to over heat.

With the tourist market in mind passenger services were up graded in 1987. The introduction of a licensed buffet car, complimentary afternoon tea, and an informative commentary highlighting points of interest and an open decked viewing car for keen photographers and those who want a closer look at the scenery, resulted in a 60 per cent rise in patronage in the first year This won the venture the 1988 New Zealand Tourist Industry Federation award.

The 231 kilometre journey from Christchurch to Greymouth and return is a very suitable day excursion. Some passengers, however, elect to return to Christchurch by bus, allowing them to take in yet another view of the breathtaking Otira Gorge scenery. Others use the journey as the beginning of an exciting few days exploring more or the rugged West Coast. There are various two and three day packages available which allow he visitor to enjoy such activities as jet boating on the Grey river, panning for gold at the historic Shanty Town museum or taking an escorted tour to the Franz Josef Glacier.

I have opted to return on the train. As the one locomotive is used both ways, passengers are able to explore the craft shops and nephrite jade (Greenstone) processing outlets of Greymouth while the locomotive is preparing for the return journey.

The West Coast of New Zealand is one of the few places in the world where jade is found. The Maori, the indigenous people of New Zealand, refer to The South Island as Te Wahi Pounamou (the place of greenstone). It was this national treasure which first attracted them to the South island nearly 200 years ago.

I spend much of the journey back to Christchurch chatting with some of my fellow passengers and I am amazed to fine they are from the four corners of the earth. Some are on their first rail excursion, others are long time rail enthusiasts, but all agree the TranzAlpine is a never to be forgotten rail experience.