Tales from Tawa: Roving Through The Blackhall Ranges
Eve-Marie Wilson takes us exploring in Queensland’s Blackhall Ranges, where there are hectares of unspoiled rainforest, national parks, scenic countryside and picturesque mountain villages, all waiting to be discovered by adventurous tourists.
Like thousands of other New Zealanders we frequently travel to Australia to spend time savouring the delights of Queensland’s Sunshine Coast.
Blessed with a wonderful climate, abundant natural beauty and kilometres of sandy beaches, this area one hour north of Brisbane, is a holidaymakers’ paradise.
While we had always been aware of the myriad of water activities available and man-made amusements on offer, we hadn’t realized the attractions did not stop at the coast.
Acting on the advice of the local tourist information officer, we hired a car and set out to spend a day touring the Blackall Range. We were amazed to find only a short drive into the hinterland, there were hectares of unspoiled rainforest, national parks, scenic country side and picturesque mountain villages, all waiting to be explored.
The official Blackall Range tourist drive covers a circular route which takes in the villages of Mapleton, Flaxton, Montville and Maleny.
Our first stop was in Mapleton where the panoramic view from the verandah of the historic Mapleton Hotel stretched back towards the coast and out to sea.
Situated behind the main shopping area we found a beautifully landscaped park containing hectares of ponds, abundant with water birds and colourful lilies. An information board told us the park was created by the late Ernie Setterfield a local resident who bequeathed them to the town on his death in 1991.
Following the directions of the brochure the tourism officer had given us, we drove to the Mapleton National Park where, we were ensured, just a short walk from the road there was a good view of the 120 metre high Pencil Creek Waterfall. However, we were not told that it was only after a good rainfall that the falls provided visitors with a spectacular cascade. What we saw was a meager trickle!
Time did not allow us to do one of the longer walks available through rainforest and Eucalyptus forest of the park.
A short distance from Mapleton is the tiny village of Flaxton, where we saw some fine examples of traditional Queenslander style solid timber homes. We stopped at the escarpment at the southern end of Flaxton to be entertained by hang gliders launching themselves into space. After we had tired of watching them soar high above the breathe taking scenery we drove on until we reached the Kondilla National Park, and the impressive Kondilla Falls, a major tourist feature of the Blackall Range. The park is home to a wide range of native birds and animals, including platypus. Unfortunately, there was little to see during our stop as early morning and late afternoon are the best times to view any wildlife.
The park is popular with picnickers and hikers of varying abilities and picnic tables are provided throughout the forest, in shelter sheds and on open hillsides. There is also a coin-operated electric barbecue.
As we hadn’t come prepared for a picnic we continued on to Montville where we found a number of indoor and outdoor restaurants, cafes and tearooms offering a choice of traditional, ethnic and good wholesome Australian food.
Montville is undoubtedly the jewel in the crown of the Blackall range. First settled in 1887 by citrus growers, this delightful little town with its village green, tiny timber churches and old mill water-wheel has a distinctly English atmosphere.
The undulating tree lined main street is home to a plethora of potteries, galleries and shops representing every craft imaginable, from chocolate making to wood turning. With the variety of merchandise available I could have quite easily spent the whole day here seeking out treasures, both to keep and to take home as gifts.
The architecture in the main street is a mixture of new and restored historical structures. Within the village all restored buildings and sites of historic note have been sign-posted. The surrounding residential area is a conglomeration of Tudor, Irish and English cottages, Swiss and Barvarian chalets and colonial and old Queensland style villas.
Such is the community spirit and environmental commitment of the residents, Montville has headed off over 300 other competitors to win the Queensland section of the Australian Tidy Towns Competition several times.
So taken were we with the charm and tranquility of Montville and its environs we looked into the possibility of holidaying in the area at some future date. We found there was accommodation available to meet every taste, occasion and pocket. The selection includes magnificent historic homesteads, cosy guesthouses, country cottages, well-appointed motel suites and cabins and even luxurious tree houses.
Before leaving Montville we followed a senses trail created by the local Country Women’s Association to provide the visually impaired with some contact with nature. The track lead us to the Razorback Lookout from where there was a magnificent view back towards the seaside resorts of Maroochydore, Mooloolaba and Alexandra Headland where we were staying.
Travelling south out of Montville we detoured off the main road to the Lake Baroon Pocket Dam which provides the water supply for the coast. It is however, more than just a reservoir. Surrounded by picnic areas and bush walking tracks, the sparkling water of the lake provides a unique recreational area, where sailing, canoeing, swimming and fishing are enjoyed the whole year around.
Continuing along the designated tourist route we arrived at Mary Caincross Park.
Named after an early conservationist, this is yet another area of protected rainforest in which visitors can enjoy the beauty of native flora and fauna.
From various vantage points within the park there are spectacular views of the oddly shaped Glasshouse Mountains. These were named by Captain James Cook, because they reminded him of the glass foundries near his home in Yorkshire. Ranging in height from 100 to 556 metres, these peaks and much of the surrounding countryside play an enormous part in the folklore of the local Kabi aboriginal people.
After leaving the park we journey on to Maleny. This typical Australian rural service town has a variety of charming restaurants and tearooms offering a tempting range of food and beverages.
We were told that Sunday is the best day to visit when there is a market held with handicrafts for sale, from the many art and craft galleries in the area.
Our drive took six hours, but could have easily taken longer had we spend more time enjoying the points of interest. During this time we marveled at spectacular panoramic views, were bewitched by the beauty of hectares of rainforest, relished the peacefulness of a rural environment, indulged in a unique shopping experience, savoured delicious food and escaped from the heat of the coast.
If you are thinking of holidaying on the Sunshine Coast, a day exploring the Blackall Range is a must.
