Open Writing

Some people say you can’t beat Wellington on a good day. I say you can’t beat Wellington any day.

Blessed with a beautiful natural harbour, overlooked from all directions by rolling hills, Wellington is a city of grand vistas and spectacular panoramas.

The central city is divided into quarters, each with its own particular flavour. The Lambton Quarter is the main commercial area, as well as being home to a number of up-market shops, hotels and dining establishments. The Willis Quarter is also a shopping area, while the Cuba Quarter is a mix of shops, restaurants and cafes. The Courtenay Quarter with its theatres, nightclubs, bars and restaurants is recognized as the entertainment area.

Not only is Wellington New Zealand’s political capital, it is also the cultural capital, with the New Zealand Symphony Orchestra, the Royal New Zealand Ballet, the New Zealand Drama School and four professional theatres based there. Consequently there is always some new production to see.

By international standards Wellington is no metropolis. The central city is only 2 kilometres wide and the total population of the city and suburbs, just under 400,000. However, its compact nature makes it an excellent city to explore on foot and what it lacks in population it makes up with enthusiasm. It constantly plays host to various artistic and sporting events. Whether it is the annual Cuba Street Carnival, the Rugby World 7’s, the Chinese New Year celebrations, the annual Dragon Boat Races, the Italian and Greek Food Festivals, the internationally renowned World of Wearable Art extravaganza, the four yearly International Arts Festival, or any other of the numerous entertainments on offer, Wellingtonians embrace them with gusto.

Sadly, too few visitors to New Zealand get to experience the delights of this vibrant little city as they see it as solely a venue to board or disembark the ferry to the South Island.

In my opinion, as a native Wellingtonian, the ten best activities in Wellington are =

* Visit to New Zealand’s National Museum, Te Papa. Rather than being simply a parade of static displays it is an interactive museum, which makes it not only informative but also a fun place for the whole family. Just a short walk away is the City to Sea Museum which also houses tradition displays along with many interactive exhibits.

* Another museum that should not be missed is, the Southward Car Museum, an hour’s drive from Wellington on the Kapiti Coast. It houses over 350 vehicles including two Cadillac’s, one of which belonged to the American gangster, Mickey Cohen and another once owned by the movie actress, Marlene Dietrich.

* The multi award winning, Weta Cave Mini Museum and theatrette, attached to the Weta Workshop, renowned for its work on such films as; the Lord of the Rings trilogy, King Kong, Chronicles of Narnia and Avatar, is also worth a visit.

* Take a Ride in the Cable Car. The cable car runs from Lambton Quay in the heart of the city to the hillside suburb of Kelburn. At the top is the Cable Car Museum, a cafe/restaurant and breathtaking views out over the harbour and city. Rather than taking the Cable Car back down to the city, I recommend the enjoyable walk down through the Botanical Gardens to one of Wellington’s oldest suburbs, Thorndon. From here one has the option of either, walking back to the city through streets lined with quaint restored historic cottages, or taking the path to the Rose Gardens and Begonia House, stopping for refreshments in the cafe, then walking back to the city through the historic Bolton Street Cemetery.

* Visit Zealandia. This fully-fenced wild life sanctuary which is home to endangered native species such as Tuatara and Kiwi is less than ten minutes from the central city. There is the option of independently exploring the tracks through the sanctuary by following the provided map or taking a guided tour. I recommend the latter as it improves ones chances of spotting the more secretive wildlife. A night time tour by torch light provides visitors the best opportunity of spotting a Kiwi.

* Take a drive around the scenic rugged coast. After driving through the up market suburb of Oriental Bay with its multimillion dollar homes and apartments, I recommend taking a detour to the top of Mt Victoria. From here the 360 degree view of Wellington city and its environs is spectacular.

Then retrace your steps to the marine drive. The route passes the sandy beaches of Scorching and Worser Bays, the Italian fishing village of island Bay and the windswept south coast, from where on a fine day it is possible to see across Cook Strait to the tip of the South Island. You might like to break your journey in the seaside village of Seatoun for an ice cream or a cup of tea or coffee. Personally, I like to buy an ice cream then drive through the nearby Pass of Branda so I can eat it looking out across the waters of the harbour entrance. The last section of the drive is Owhiro Bay where you can continue up Happy Valley through Brooklyn and back to the city. However, you may prefer to park your vehicle and take the 4 kilometre walk to Red Rocks where between May and August a colony of seals can be observed lazing in the sun. It is possible to drive, but the route is sandy and more suited to off road vehicles.

* Picnic on Matiu/Somes Island. This island in the middle of Wellington’s harbour can be reached by ferry from Queens Wharf in the city. During the colonisation of Wellington the island was used as a Quarantine Station for the passengers who arrived on ships with disease on board. During World Wars 1 and 2 it was turned into a prison for resident aliens (Germans and Italians). After the wars it was used as an animal quarantine station. Today it is a Conservation Sanctuary. Visitors are free to explore the 24.9 hectare island as long as they stick to the tracks. It is necessary to take your own picnic food and drink as there are no catering facilities on the island.

* Take the Ferry to Days Bay. If you fancy a day relaxing by the water, the same ferry that stops at Matiu/Somes Island carries on to the suburb of Days Bay where there is a safe sandy beach. There are cafes across the road and easily accessible bush walking tracks for those who prefer walking to swimming.

If you would prefer not to travel so far, Oriental Bay is within easy walking distance from the central city. It is small, but the promenade that runs along the edge of the beach is a great place to walk, roller blade or people watch and Kaffee Eis across the road sells the best ice cream in Wellington.

* Visit Parliament Buildings and Old St Paul’s. For anybody spending time in New Zealand’s capital city a tour of the parliamentary buildings is a must. Free tours with a professional guide are conducted at frequent intervals throughout the day. In addition to parliament house, you get to visit the gothic parliamentary library, the executive wing, known to New Zealanders as the Beehive and if parliament is not in session, you get to stand on the floor of the debating chamber. Tours take an hour.
Just a step away from the parliamentary buildings is Old St Paul’s Cathedral which is also worth a visit. The first Anglican cathedral in Wellington, Old St Paul’s was built in 1866 entirely of native timbers. It is a superb example of gothic revival architecture which has been adapted to meet the conditions of the colonial era. The stain glass windows are stunning. Regular services are no longer held there although it is still consecrated. It is a popular venue for weddings, other services, as well as musical and other cultural events.

* Visit Kapiti Island. A unique way to escape the hustle and bustle of the city is to visit the nature sanctuary of Kapiti Island. This island paradise, once home to the fierce Maori chief, Te Rauparaha is 5 kilometres off shore from the west coast town of Paraparaumu, 50 kilometres north of Wellington. It is essential to obtain a permit from the Conservation Department before booking your visit as numbers allowed on the island at any one time are limited. Permits should be applied for months in advance. There is the choice of either spending the day on the island and taking a guided tour, or staying the night for a kiwi spotting night tour. For those who wish to spend the day such activities as bird watching, fishing, swimming, snorkelling and sea kayaking are available.

* Spend some time in the Wairarapa. No visit to Wellington would be complete without taking time to drive across the Rimutaka Mountain Range to visit the rural region of the Wairarapa about an hour’s drive from downtown Wellington. The country villages of this region each have their individual charm. Martinborough takes pride in its wineries and olive groves and on the first weekend of February and March hosts an excellent country craft fair. Carterton, is a delight to visit if you are interested in art or gardens. A visit to Paua World with its large range of jewellery made from the shell of this iconic New Zealand mollusc, as well as the Pink Mussel shell, is a must. The pretty village of Greytown with its many restored Victorian cottages is renowned for its orchards, shopping and its excellent dining facilities. Masterton is the largest town in the region. The 130 year old Queen Elizabeth Park, in the middle of town, with is giant trees is the ideal place to take respite from the summer heat. There is a playground, mini golf, pony rides and paddle boats. I recommend taking time for a meal at Cafe Cecile in the centre of the park. I have only touched on a little of what is available in the Wairarapa. There is so much more. I recommend any visitor should spend several days in the area to do justice to what is available.

* Take the Inter Island Ferry to Picton. A great way to spend a day is to take an early morning inter-island ferry to the quaint seaside village of Picton and return on one of the evening ferries. The journey, which has been described as one of the most spectacular in the world, travels across Cook Strait and down Kenepuru Sound. Kenepuru Sound is just one of the many beautiful waterways which make up the outdoor paradise known as the Marlborough Sounds. The journey from Wellington to Picton takes 3 hours.

Alternatively, stay longer and treat yourself to a few days in one of the many luxury waterside lodges littered through the Sounds. The Marlborough Sounds are a great place to relax and do nothing, or indulge in activities such as bush walking, kayaking, fishing or just cruising the many scenic inlets.

The Wellington region is a vibrant and exciting place to live and I encourage any visitor to New Zealand to include it on their holiday itinerary.

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