Open Writing

The Great Ocean Road is undoubtedly the most magnificent coastal drive in Australia. It features tiny seaside towns with houses tucked into the hillsides, great ocean sculptures of sandstone and every turn brings a new sensation of ocean, cliff and sky. The Road is composed of stretches of meandering coastal road that at times run inland through forest or open grassland.

Travelling into Victoria from South Australia, the first panorama to excite the senses is Discovery Bay Coastal Park that extends from Nelson to Cape Bridgewater. It is a majestic 50 km sweep of ocean beach, huge dunes and coastal lakes. The Park is a haven for migratory waders from Siberia and the region is well known for whale watching—Southern Right Whales from Antarctic waters regularly pass by.

Aboriginal populations in the southwestern area of Victoria were more open to dispossession than elsewhere in Australia because of the fertile soil. In 1838, squatters invaded the district in a lust for land onslaught and despite fierce resistance, the first stage of dispossession was complete by 1861.

The modern history of the Giraiwurung people near Warrnambool is the story told time and again at various locations in Victoria where Aboriginal Reserves were set up by the government. These include Cummeragunja on the Murray River in the land of the Yorta Yorta people, Coranderrk near Healesville and Lake Tyers on the south coast.

In 1865, the government allocated 1,400 hectares of land by the Hopkins River to the Church of England to establish a reserve for the Giraiwurung people. This became known as Framlingham Reserve. During its history, Europeans clamoured for the reserve to be handed over to private purchase. At Coranderrk, this happened in 1923 and the second dispossession was as bitter for the people as the first.

Many times the Aboriginal people of Framlingham were threatened with eviction. Then in 1971, justice prevailed and the 240 ha reserve was handed over to community ownership under the Aboriginal Lands Act of Victoria. In 1987, Framlingham forest that the government had excised from the reserve before 1971 was returned to the people after sustained community pressure.

The Great Ocean Road runs inland between Princetown and Apollo Bay through the cool temperate rainforest of Otway National Park. The Otways have the highest rainfall in Victoria and the towering mountain ash reach 100 m. There are lovely walks in the forest including sections of raised boardwalk through magnificent tree ferns and mosses that grow prolifically in this saturated environment.

Huge seascape sculptures abound along the Road. At Point Campbell, the rugged limestone cliffs have been etched by the elements into magnificent forms: the Twelve Apostles (or however many are left), Lock Ard Gorge and Sentinel Rock. There are boardwalks and steps here to cater for the sightseer. The photograph shows Apostles standing, fallen or out of view.

This jagged coastline bent with the fury of the Southern Ocean has claimed many shipwrecks. The 1693 ton clipper Lock Ard went down in 1878 with the loss of fifty-two lives and in 1845, the emigrant ship Cataraqui sank with the loss of 406 lives.

The tourist is advised to travel the Road casually enough to have time for coffee at an outdoor café in Lorne, surf Bells Beach, visit the fairy penguins at Portland and experience the blowholes of Cape Bridgewater. Recommended is an off-road trip to ascend the lighthouse tower at Cape Otway, which is the most southern point of the Road.

One can paddle a canoe on Lake Elizabeth in Great Otway National Park with a guide at the helm to spot the reclusive platypus; view a 70 minute laser show of 'the loss of the Lock Ard and the tale of the two survivors' at Warrnambool; and visit the 30 m Erskine Falls in Angahook Lorne State Forest. Picturesque Queenscliff beside-the-sea is the beginning or end of the Great Ocean Road.

© Paul Newbury

Paul writes for Bonzer! magazine. Please visit www.bonzer.org.au